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Alder smoked collar of wild japanese buri

by Michael Cimarusti
California, United States

I have been fishing even longer than I’ve been cooking and it is my all-time favorite activity.

Alder smoked collar of wild japanese buri

    4 PERS.
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1 large buri collar

113g (4oz.) brown sugar
113g (4oz.) sea salt
946ml (1 qt.) water

113g (4oz.) good quality barrel-aged soy sauce
57ml (2 oz.) good quality maple syrup

400g (2 cups) sushi rice
Water, as needed

118ml (½ cup) rice vinegar
118ml (½ cup) brown rice vinegar
6 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp sea salt

6 eggs, plus one yolk
½ tsp high quality Japanese sesame oil
1 tsp corn starch
2 tsp Shiro Dashi (or high-quality soy sauce)
64g (½ cup) Dashi

4 small Tokyo turnips
2 tbsp sea salt
2 tsp sugar
118ml (½ cup) fine quality rice vinegar
¼ tsp golden sesame oil

113g (4oz.) celtuce, peeled, cut into a julienne, blanched in salty water and refreshed
28g (1 oz.) finely chopped fresh black truffle
1 tbsp Wadaman sesame seeds
1 bunch green scallions, cut into a fine julienne, soaked in ice water
2 per serving calendula blossoms, or other edible flowers


Bring the water to a simmer, then add the salt and sugar. Cool to room temp. before adding the cleaned buri collar. Leave the collar in the brine in the fridge overnight. The next day remove the fish from the brine and prepare a smoker and the soy-maple glaze.

Place the collar on a metal rack. Prepare the smoker with Alder Chips. Smoke the fish at 68°C (155°F) for 2 hours, brushing every
20 minutes with the soy-maple glaze. At this point the fish can be held in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. To reheat the fish for the dish pre-heat a convection oven to 149°C (300°F). Place the fish on a rack and wrap it in aluminium foil. Place the fish in the oven for 30 minutes. This will bring the fish back to temperature and it will keep it moist as well. The brined fish can be cooked as well without the use of a smoker if you don’t have access to one. To do so: pre-heat an oven to 163°C (325°F). Place the collar on a rack, brush with the soy- maple glaze. Cook the fish for 20-25 minutes and test for doneness with a thermometer: the fish should read 54°C (130°F) at least. Remove it from the oven. Turn the oven to the broiler setting, brush the fish with the glaze, put the fish under the broiler and allow the glaze to colour. Brush and repeat the process until the fish has a rich bronze colour.

Combine all ingredients, bring to a boil to dissolve the salt and sugar, remove from the heat. Hold for later use - it will last for weeks in the refrigerator.

4 — RICE
Select a fine quality Koshihikari Short Grain Rice. Rinse in several changes of cold water. Repeat until the water is clear. Place the rice in a rice cooker. Add 2 cups cold water and allow the rice to soak for 30 minutes before turning the rice cooker on. Once the rice is cooked, allow it to sit in the rice cooker covered for 15 minutes. Remove it from the rice cooker and place it in a wooden bowl. Begin to mix the rice with a wooden paddle or spoon, add the zu in small additions until the rice has a nice shine to it and is well seasoned. You may not need all of the zu. As you are mixing the rice use a fan to cool the rice, it is best just above room temperature for this dish. Once the rice is cooled and properly seasoned, set it aside, covered until you are ready to finish the dish.

Warm a few drops of olive oil in a non-stick skillet. Ladle two ounces of the mixture into the pan and swirl it around until the batter starts to cook. Allow the crepe to set, when cooked remove from the pan and stack them between sheets of oiled parchment paper. When the crepes are cool, cut them into a julienne, then set aside for service.

Peel the turnips and cut them into thin wedges. Lace them in a bowl, add the salt and let the turnips sweat for 15 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and place them in the fridge overnight. They will keep for several weeks.

Once you have seasoned the rice, carefully mound it up in the centre of a serving bowl. Re-heat the Buri collar as detailed above. Arrange the ingredients and the garnishes over and around the rice. Place the warm buri collar in the centre of the rice. Bring the bowl to the table and share the dish among friends along with a bottle of chilled Krug Rosé.

The Krug Rosé cuts through the richness of the fish and works well with the truffle and seasoned rice. The assertive flavour and rich, smoky and lightly, sweet nature of the fish call for the structure and spice of Krug Rosé 26ème Édition.
Krug Grande Cuvée
Krug Grande Cuvée
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